Habari from Kenya!
Jambo! I’ve arrived in Kenya. It was a long journey – some 26 hours – but I had no delays or incidents to note (except the minor annoyance that the woman sitting in front of me dropped her pillow every thirty minutes. In pursuit, she grabbed my calf at these frequent intervals. Thus, the rogue hand thwarted an otherwise relaxing journey.).
Murithi (The General’s youngest son) sent me a message that his wife and family would be collecting me from the airport, as his work required him to be outside of Nairobi. They greeted me with a beautiful bouquet of flowers. My memories of Kenyan hospitality were not in vain – this country is home to some of the most amazingly kind and generous people I’ve met in my 26 years.
This experience is very different from my first time entering Kenya, in October 2006 (please excuse this aside): I was coming from Uganda and riding by boda-boda and matatu (“boda-boda” is motorcycle and “matatu” is minibus). Dust was heavy in the air during dry season, and dirt coated my face. I removed my sunglasses, leaving two raccoon-like circles of white. I was in this dirty state when I attempted to cross the border.
I handed my passport to the Kenyan immigrations official. The border agent looked briefly at my passport and then focused on my face. He smiled and said, “Oh, you look very nice.” I was embarrassed but flattered and explained that I felt very dirty.
He said, “No, you see, what I say is that if I want to find a wife, then I must go to the farm, and find her digging. And if she looks fine then, then when she is fresh, she will look so nice!” I began to see where this was going. He said, “And so I look at you, and you are dirty now, but you still look okay. But when you are clean, you will be so nice!” I took it as a compliment and ran.
(Returning to present day) Now I was entering Kenya relatively clean, and I had private transport in the family’s vehicle. On the way home, we stopped by a convenience store to eat dinner. For my first meal in Kenya, I am happy to report that I indulged on a traditional feast of pizza. There is actually no culturally-insightful thing that I can say regarding this pizza – it was the exact same type that I would find in America, much to my dismay.
In the car ride home, the first song which played on the radio was “How Great Thou Art.” This was my Granddad’s favorite song and hymn, and I felt like he was winking at me, subtly giving his approval.
We arrived at their house, a three-bedroom, two-story town home, complete with running water and electricity. I stayed in the room of their 14-year-old son, who is away at boarding school. After 48 hours with no real sleep, I tucked myself in to my mosquito net (please see below comments by Mom and Murithi…I need to avoid getting bitten for the next week, until my malaria medicine kicks in), and I went to sleep.
I awoke to a rooster crowing at sunrise. Apparently even in the city, people keep roosters. They are probably a better investment than alarm clocks and taste better too. My biggest qualm with a rooster wake-up call is that there is no “snooze” button. Perhaps I will have to invest in a good baseball instead (disclaimer to animal rights folks: no roosters have been harmed while issuing this statement).
I’d planned to travel to the tea farm this afternoon, but instead The General is traveling to Nairobi tomorrow. On Monday, he will receive the Head of State Commendation from the Kenyan Government, recognizing his national contributions. I will attend the ceremony and then travel with him back to the tea farm following the event. Quite good timing, no?!
Well, there is much more to share, but I just wanted to alert everyone that I’ve arrived safe and sound, and I am in good hands here. I’ve promised Phoebe, the 7-year-old daughter, that I would play cards with her, so I must go now. I’ve warned her that my brother and I can go days without speaking after a Monopoly battle, but she still wants to play. I really hope she doesn’t beat me for her own sake.
Sending much pendo (love) from Kenya – Laura Lee
You are amazing! I have so much good faith in this project girl. I traveling with you from South America….keep the posts coming.
Suerte!
ashley
Thank you RAFIKI! Can’t wait to swap stories when you get Stateside – te mando besitos y abrazos! Suerte para vos tambien – LL :-)